YOGYAKARTA PALACE

Yogyakarta Presidential Palace is located at the southern end of Jl. Akhmad Yani (formerly Jl. Malioboro); Ngupasan, Gondomanan Sub District, Yogyakarta. The complex was built on 43,585 meters per square land. Since it was built, the palace has not changed much. At the front yard, stands a two meters tall statue of a giant gurding the entrance (Dwarapala). Moreover, there is a 3 and half meters “tugu” (a statue in the form of tall pillar) named ‘Tugu Dagoba” (the Yogyakartans call it “Tugu Lilin/candle”), with artificial flame on top. It is made of “andesite” rock. The backyard is full of big trees shading the presidential palace with their thick leaves. Yogyakarta Presidential Palace is also well known as “Gedung Agung” (the Great Building) or “Gedung Negara” (the State Building). One of the main functions of the main building of the palace is a place to receive royal guests.

Yogyakarta Presidential Palace was formerly an officicial house of the 18th Resident in Yogyakarta (1823 – 1825). He was a Dutch named Anthonie Hendriks Smissaert, who was also the one initiating the construction of the “Gedung Agung”. The building was built in May 1824 by A. Payen, an architect appointed by the Governor General of West Indies. The construction was temporarily delayed due to the Diponegoro War (1825 – 1830) and continued after the war was over (1832). Among several Dutch governors who lived in the building were J.E. Jesper (1926 – 1927); P.R.W. van Gesseler Verschuur (1929 – 1932); H.M. de Kock (1932 – 1935); J. Bijlevel (1935 – 1940); and L. Adam (1940 – 1942). At the time of Japan colonization, the palace served as the official house for the leader in Yogyakarta, Koochi Zimmukyoku Tyookan.

On 6 January 1946, Yogyakarta was announced as the capital city of the Republic of Indonesia after the Indonesian Government moved from Jakarta to Yogyakarta. At that time, “Gedung Agung” became a Presdintial Palace, a home for president Soekarno, the first President of the Republic of Indonesia, as well as his family.

On 28 December 1949, President Soekarno moved to Jakarta, and since then the palace was no longer the home of the president. After the independence, when the second president of the Republic of Indonesia ruled to be exact, since 17 April 1988, Yogyakarta Presidential Palace/”Gedung Agung” has been functioning as a place to conduct the Afternoon Parade Ceremony every 17 August, to hold initiation events for the Indonesian Air Forces’ newcomers as well as farewel parties between the Indonesian Armed Forces junior officer graduates and the Governor and people of Yogyakarta. Furthermore, since 17 August 1991, D.I. Yogyakarta has been commemorating the Seconds of the Proclamation of the Independence at Yogyakarta Presidential Palace.

Read More..

Tara Temple, the Oldest Buddhism Inheritance in Yogyakarta

Most people will mention Borobudur when talking about Buddhism temples. Whereas, there are many other Buddhism temples in Yogyakarta; one of them that is closely related to Borobudur is Tara temple. This temple that is located in Kalibening village in Kalasan was built by the same person who conceptualized Borobudur temple, namely Rakai Panangkaran. Since it is located in Kalasan area, this temple is popular with the name of Kalasan temple.

Completed in 778 AD, Tara temple becomes the oldest Buddhism temple in Yogyakarta. This temple that is situated close to Yogya-Solo Street was a present of the marriage of Pancapana of Sanjaya dynasty to Dyah Pramudya Wardhani of Syailendra dynasty. In addition to a marriage present, the temple was also realization of the kings' proposal to build another holy temple for goddess Tara and a monastery for the monks.

Tara temple is a building in the form of a cube with the size of each side of 45 meters and 34 meters high. Vertically, this temple consists of three parts, namely temple foot, temple body and temple roof. The foot of the temple is a building on square stones and a wide stone. On this part, there is a stair with makara ornament at the end. Meanwhile, around the temple foot there are ornaments of climbing plants that come out from pots.

The body of the temple protrudes at the central side. At the outer surface of the temple body, a hollow is ornamented with a standing goddess holding lotus. In southeast part, there is a small room with throne ornamented with the motif of a lion standing on an elephant's back. The room can be accessed from the other room at the east side.

The roof of the temple is octagonal and consists of two stories. An effigy describing Buddha is located in the first story while on the second story there is a statue describing Yani Buddha. The top of the temple is a square symbolizing Semeru summit with ornaments of domes. At the interface of the temple body and the roof, there is a flower ornament of a dwarf named Gana.

If you observe the temple in detail, you will also find beautiful relief on its surface; for example, relief of tree of god and cloud and the dwellers of the heaven producing sounds. The dwellers of the heaven hold rebab (two-stringed music instrument), shell, and camara. There are also ornaments of flowers, leaves and climbing plants. Relief at Tara temple is typical since they are coated with special cement called Brajalepha, made from sap of certain tree.

Around the temple, there are 52 domes as high as around 4.6 meters. Even though those domes are not intact anymore, since some parts are missing, you can still enjoy them. Visiting this temple of which construction history is known from Candi inscription in Panagari letters, you will acknowledge the greatness of Rakai Panangkaran who even had the opportunity to build a holy building in Thailand.

This temple also proves that in the past there was an effort to unite people of different religions. The proof is that Panangkaran who was a Hindu built the Tara temple in response to the proposal of Buddhism monks to be presented to Pancapana who is also a Buddhist. This temple is also one of the holy buildings that inspired Atisha, a Buddhist from India who once visited Borobodur and spread Buddhism to Tibet.

Read More..

Plaosan Temple, the Twin Temple in Yogyakarta

After visiting Prambanan temple, you should not rush to your hotel, because close to the beautiful Hindu temple, you can also see other interesting temples. Moving 1 kilometer northwards, you will find Plaosan Temple; a temple constructed by Rakai Pikatan for her wife, Pramudyawardani. The architect of the temple that is located in Bugisan village of Prambanan sub-district is combination of Hindu and Buddha.

Plaosan complex is divided into 2 groups, namely the North Plaosan Temple and the South Plaosan Temple. Both of the temples have square terrace that is encircled by wall, a pillbox for meditation at the west part and dome on other side. Because of that similarity, the appearance of both temples are the same when they are seen from distant so that Plaosan temple is also called the twin temples.

The North Plaosan Temple has middle courtyard encircled by wall with the entrance at the west side. In the middle of the courtyard, there is a hall as wide as 21.62 m x 19 m. At the eastern part of the hall, there are 3 altars, namely north, east and south altars. The pictures of Amitbha, Ratnasambhava, Vairochana, and Aksobya are at the east altar. Samantabadhara statue and Ksitigarba figure is at the north altar, while Manjusri picture is at the west alter.

The South Plaosan temple also has a hall at the center that is encircled by 8 small temples that is divided into 2 ranks and each rank consists of 4 temples. There also pictures of Tathagata Amitbha, Vajrapani with vajra attribute at the utpala and Pranjaparamita who was considered "the mother of all Buddha". Some other pictures can still be found but not at their original places. Manujri figure that according to a Dutch scientist named Krom is significant can also be seen.

Part of this bas relief has unique picture of man and woman. There is a man described as sitting cross-legged with worshipping hands and a figure of a man with vara mudra and vse at his leg encircled by six smaller men. A woman is described as standing with vara mudra hands, while there are book, pallet, and vase around her. Krom explains that figures of those man and woman are descriptions of supporting patron from two monasteries.

The entire complex of Plaosan temple has 116 ancillary domes and 50 ancillary temples. Ancillary domes can be seen on each side of the main temple, as can smaller ancillary temples. Walking northwards, you can see open building called Mandapa. Two inscriptions can also be found; they are the inscription on gold coin at the north of the main temple and an inscription written on a stone in the first line of the ancillary temples.

One of the characteristics of Plaosan temple is the smooth surface of the terrace. Krom explains that such a terrace is different from other temples of the same time. To his opinion, it is related to the function of a temple by that time that is predicted to keep canonical texts owned by Buddhist monks. Other prediction by Dutch scientists, if the number of monks in that area is small then the terrace might be used as a place for Buddhists to pray.

If you go around the temple complex, you will notice that the complex of Plaosan temple is wide. That can also be noticed from long fence stretching 460 meters from north to south and 290 meters from west to east. There is also moat inside stretching as long as 440 meters from north to south and 270 meters from west to east. The moat can be seen by walking eastwards through the middle part of this historical building.

Read More..

Ijo Temple, the Temple Located at the Highest Place in Yogyakarta

Going along the street leading to the southern part of Queen Boko Palace complex is such an exciting journey, especially for cultural tourism lovers. The reason is that there are so many temples mushrooming in that area. One of them that is rarely talked about is Candi Ijo or Ijo Temple; one temple of which location is the highest compared to other temples in Yogyakarta.

Ijo Temple was built in around the ninth century on a hill named the Green Hill of which height is 410 meters above the sea level. Because of this height, we can enjoy not only the temple but also natural view below such as terraces of agriculture land with its steep slope. Even though this is not a fertile area, natural view around the temple is so beautiful to enjoy.

The complex of the temple consists of 17 building structures that are divided into 11 terraces. The first terrace functioning as the yard leading to the entrance is a terrace with staircase stretching from west to east. The building on the eleventh terrace is in the form of encircling wall, eight pole phallus, four buildings namely the main temple, and three ancillary temples. The placement of the building on each terrace is based on the level of its being sacral. The building on the highest terrace is the most sacral.

Variants of painting are found since the entrance of this Hindu temple. Right on the entrance gate, there is a motif of double head giant and some of its attributes. Such motif and attributes found in Buddhist temples show that such temples are acculturation forms of Hindu and Buddha cultures. Some temples having such giant motif are Ngawen, Plaosan and Sari.

There is also a statue describing flying woman and man directing to certain side. Such description can have some meanings; first, as spells to expel evil spirit and second as symbol of unity between god Siva and goddess Umi. The unity is meant as the onset of universe creation. Different from the statues in Prambanan Temple, natural style of the statues in Ijo Temple do not lead to eroticism.

Approaching the ancillary temples on the eleventh terrace, there is a pit possible used to burn sacrifice. Right on the upper part of the pit back wall there are ventilations in the forms of trapezium and triangle. The pit reflects the Hindu community that adores Brahma, the god of fire. The three ancillary temples show community adoration to the three Hindu gods, namely Brahma, Siva, and Vishnu.

Some of the works that keep mystery are two inscriptions located in the temple building on the ninth terrace. One of the inscriptions is coded by letter F with the writing Guywan or Bluyutan meaning place for meditation. Another inscription is made of stone as high as 14 cm and as thick as 9 cm containing magic spells that are predicted to be curses. The magic spells were written 16 times and parts of them read "Om Sarwwawinasa, Sarwwawinasa." The two inscriptions may relate closely to certain occurrences in Java by that time. What were the occurrences? They are not revealed yet up to now.

Visiting this temple, you will find beautiful scenery that other temples do not have. Looking down westwards, you will see airplane taking off and landing at Adisutjipto International Airport. You see this scenery because the Seribu Mountains where Ijo Temple is located is the border of the east part of the airport. It is because of the presence of this temple that Adisutjipto Airport cannot be lengthened eastwards.

Each detail of the temple presents meaningful thing and invites the visitors to make a reflection so that the journey will not just be fun time. Great paintings without the name of the creators show life philosophy of the past Javanese community that emphasized more on moral message presented by the works rather than the creators or the greatness of their works.

Read More..

Prambanan, the Most Beautiful Hindu Temple in the World

Prambanan temple is extraordinarily beautiful building constructed in the tenth century during the reigns of two kings namely Rakai Pikatan and Rakai Balitung. Soaring up to 47 meters (5 meters higher than Borobudur temple), the foundation of this temple has fulfilled the desire of the founder to show Hindu triumph in Java Island. This temple is located 17 kilometers from the city center, among an area that now functions as beautiful park.

There is a legend that Javanese people always tell about this temple. As the story tells, there was a man named Bandung Bondowoso who loved Roro Jonggrang. To refuse his love, Jonggrang asked Bondowoso to make her a temple with 1,000 statues only in one-night time. The request was nearly fulfilled when Jonggrang asked the villagers to pound rice and to set a fire in order to look like morning had broken. Feeling to be cheated, Bondowoso who only completed 999 statues cursed Jonggrang to be the thousandth statue.

Prambanan temple has three main temples in the primary yard, namely Vishnu, Brahma, and Shiva temples. Those three temples are symbols of Trimurti in Hindu belief. All of them face to the east. Each main temple has accompanying temple facing to the west, namely Nandini for Shiva, Angsa for Brahma, and Garuda for Vishnu. Besides, there are 2 flank temples, 4 kelir temples and 4 corner temples. In the second area, there are 224 temples.

Entering Shiva temple, the highest temple and is located in the middle, you will find four rooms. One main room contains Shiva statue, while the other three rooms contain the statues of Durga (Shiva's wife), Agastya (Shiva's teacher), and Ganesha (Shiva's son). Durga statue is said to be the statue of Roro Jonggrang in the above legend.

In Vishnu temple, to the north of Shiva temple, you will find only one room with Vishnu statue in it. In Brahma temple, to the south of Shiva temple, you find only room as well with Brahma statue in it.

Quite attractive accompanying temple is Garuda temple that is located close to Vishnu temple. This temple keeps a story of half-bird human being named Garuda. Garuda is a mystical bird in Hindu mythology. The figure is of golden body, white face, red wings, with the beak and wings similar to eagle's. It is assumed that the figure is Hindu adaptation of Bennu (means 'rises' or 'shines') that is associated with the god of the Sun or Re in Old Egypt mythology or Phoenix in Old Greek mythology. Garuda succeeded in saving his mother from the curse of Aruna (Garuda's handicapped brother) by stealing Tirta Amerta (the sacred water of the gods).

Its ability to save her mother made many people admire it to the present time and it is used for various purposes. Indonesia uses the bird as the symbol of the country. Other country using the same symbol is Thailand, with the same reason but different form adaptation and appearance. In Thailand, Garuda is known as Krut or Pha Krut.

Prambanan also has panels of relief describing the story of Ramayana. Experts say that the relief is similar to the story of Ramayana that is told orally from generation to generation. Another interesting relief is Kalpataru tree that - in Hindu - the tree is considered tree of life, eternity and environment harmony. In Prambanan, relief of Kalpataru tree is described as flanking a lion. The presence of this tree makes experts consider that Javanese society in the ninth century had wisdom to manage its environment.

Just like Garuda, Kalpataru tree is also used for various purposes. In Indonesia, Kalpataru is used as the logo of Indonesian Environment Institution. Some intellectuals in Bali even develop "Tri Hita Karana" concept for environment conservation by seeing Kalpataru relief in this temple. This tree of life is also seen in the gunungan (the puppet used as an opening of traditional puppet show or wayang kulit). This proves that relief panels in Prambanan have been widely known throughout the world.

If you see the relief in detail, you will see many birds on them; they are real birds as we can see on the earth right now. Relief panels of such birds are so natural that biologists can identify their genus. One of them is the relief of the Yellow-Crest Parrot (Cacatua sulphurea) that cites unanswered question. The reason is that the bird only exists in Masakambing Island, an island in the middle of Java Sea. Then, did the bird exist in Yogyakarta? No body has succeeded in revealing the mystery.

You can discover many more things in Prambanan. You can see relief of Wiracarita Ramayana based on oral tradition. If you feel tired of enjoying the relief, you can take a rest in the beautiful garden in the complex. Since 18 September 2006, you can enter zone 1 area of Prambanan temple. The damage caused by the earthquake on 27 May 2006 is being reconstructed. Please come and enjoy Prambanan temple.

Read More..

Ullen Sentalu Museum, Yogyakarta

One man's homage to Javanese culture, the Ullen Sentalu Museum offers a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the women of the royal courts.

In the village of Kaliurang, on the slopes of Mount Merapi, is Ullen Sentalu Museum, arguably the most fascinating museum in the Yogyakarta area. Built about seven years ago, the museum of Javanese art and culture is exceptionally well presented, interesting and informative.

Ullen Sentalu Museum with beautiful design

In the higher altitude location of Kaliurang, 26 kilometers from Yogyakarta, the air is cool and fresh. The buildings of the complex are architecturally designed and built from local stone, sheltered by trees and featuring walkways over water, large courtyard spaces and gardens. You will be escorted around the complex by an English-speaking guide, after first being welcomed with a cup of delicious spicy tea made to the special recipe invented by the wife of a past sultan of Surakarta.

The Ullen Sentalu Museum is privately owned by Thomas Haryonagoro, a retired businessman, who expressed his immense love and appreciation of his own culture by investing his savings in this homage to the traditions of Java and now is managed by Ulating Blencong Foundation. It is a ‘labor of love’ – not making a profit, but not necessarily intended to. He wants to give something back to Java, the land of his birth, the homeland he loves. Thomas also has hopes that he can interest schools in bringing students tot hemuseum to study and learn about he richness of Javanese culture.

A newer addition is the Art Deco style Beukenhof Restaurant. As you climb the strais and enter this quiet and classy space, the atmosphere of times gone by washes over you, transporting you back to an era when life was time to sense and savor it.

A particularly unusual and endearing feature of the museum is the special attention paid to the wives of the sultans and other notable women of Java. At the Yogyakarta Kraton and other museums, the sultans get all the attention and women are all but ignored. Special permission had to be acquired from the Yogyakarta court to give this equal focus to the women of the royal courts, and was granted because Kaliurang was deemed to be far enough outside Yogyarakta that this breach of usual tradition could be permitted.

Some of the consorts of past sultans of Surakarta and Yogyakarta have been beautiful, intelligent, well educated and accomplished women in their won right, whose presence was much sought after in high society circles in Europe. Visiting Ullen Sentalu may well be the only time you ever hear of them today.

In the museum, you can see historical photographs of the palace as well as other interesting images of people and events during the colonial era. There are various artifacts, and many oil paintings, including painted portraits of various sultans and also their wives. Carefully displayed in glass cabinets are the actual items of clothing being worn in the portraits.

There is also a batik museum where you can compare examples of the batik style of Yogyakarta and Surajarta, and also batiks exhibiting Chinese influence from the northern coastal towns of java. For the serious student of traditional textiles, this museum is a must. The final part of the escorted tour takes you to a room where the traditional Javanese wedding garb is displayed and explained. Every item has a meaning and it is beautiful to delve into these old traditions.

All the exhibits are fascinating and the visitor is rewarded with a deeper appreciation of the depth and refinement of Javanese culture, which is sometimes hard to find amongst the razzamatazz of Sosro, Malioboro and Prawirotaman.

It is well worth the trip to Kaliurang, if only to visit Ullen Sentalu, but there are many other things there to enjoy. You can walk around the nearby tourist village of Sambi, or you can check into one of the many small hotels and stay the night at Gunung Merapi. And the energetic tourist can climb Merapi with a guide.

Ullen Sentalu Museum is situated at Taman Kaswargan, Jl. Boyong, with a signpost on the main road where you must turn off the left approaching the village of Kaliurang.
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 9am-4pm (closed on Monday)
Telp: 0274-895161

Read More..